TRIPLE THREAT! Hairstylist [Marcus Francis](http://www.starworksartists.com/hair/marcus-francis/portfolio/ Marcus Francis") recreates three of Kerry Washington's winning red carpet looks. (ELLE)
Spring has finally sprung and it's time to celebrate! In this week's Throwback Thursday, we take a look back to the Spring shows that debuted last fall and break down the biggest beauty trends of the season. Did the fashion set get it right? Read on and decide for yourself.
Some see Fashion's recent MINIMALIST trend as a call-to-arms against the rising number of social media outlets covering the shows. Fashion may be using MINIMALISM as a way of distinguishing the true style stars from the hoards of wannabes peacocking for blogger-cred in the streets. For S/S13 we saw many designers stray away from garish runway shows in lieu of more paired down, subtle turnouts; focusing on luxe fabrics, tailoring and design integrity.
Hairstylists opted for sleek and simple styles to compliment the understated clothes coming down the runway. Deep parts (re: very deep) and low ponytails were the technique of choice for taking these looks from mundane to chic. In the same vain, makeup artists went for a less-is-more approach; the makeup story at Valentino was rumored to be completely based off the natural flush of model Maud Welzen's cheeks! Some shows even went as far as scrapping makeup altogether in favor of facial massages and other skincare treatments before the shows. Gasp!
SEEN AT: Narciso Rodriguez (New York), Gucci (Milan), Jil Sander (Paris)
The minimal trend is great for Spring because it relies on a girl's natural hair texture and, when done right, takes almost no prep time! But be warned: Minimal hair does not mean messy hair! When it comes to making this trend work it's all about the details.
A polished ponytail only takes an extra 60 seconds to wrap extra hair around the tie and secure with bobby pins. Another key element is clean lines. I suggest using Dove Style+Care Strength & Shine Flexible Hold Hairspray and a natural bristle brush to create a crisp hairline in the front, sides and along the nape of the neck.
Starworks Artists hairstylist Mark Townsend.
SEEN AT: Rag & Bone (New York), Marni (Milan), Valentino (Paris)
Makeup is a reflection of the times and, right now, women are putting the color into their wardrobe & less on their face. Women want to look healthy & fresh. For many years we have caked on the makeup and now it's about a classic look w good features. Granted, we'll still see a pop of color on the lips and the eyes, but natural beauty has never been more popular than right now.
If you want great skin (and you're not 19) - it's starts internally. Water is key to keeping your liver clean (which is where dark circles under the eye come from). Alcohol dehydrates and can make women break out. It even comes down to cleaning your sheets regularly because a dirty pillow case can cause blemishes. If you want perfect skin you need to treat your body well & take care of personal hygiene.
A girl can rock the minimal look easily & it's fun. Try applying foundation to the skin like a moisturizer. I like to use CHANEL Vitalumiere Aqua, Neutrogena Healthy Skin and Dior Liquid Foundation. First, you take foundation in palm of hand and either mix w a lotion or apply after moisturizer and let it set. Second, take a bronzer and apply to contour of cheek bone, forehead and chin. Then, with a beautiful matte brush, apply small amount to apple of cheek. Nothing should overpower.
SWA makeup artist Nico Guilis
90's grunge was alive and thriving on the S/S13 runways. Dries Van Noten's show was so overwrought with sheer flannel it was hard not to liken it to Marc Jacobs controversial debut (and finale) show for Perry Ellis in the early 90's. Even though Kurt and Courtney seemed to be on everyone's mood board this season, beauty pros made conscious efforts to modernize the oft-gritty look; using pomades and braiding/unbraiding hair to create the lived-in effect and swapping out Love's signature red lipstick for an updated shade of fuchsia. Yes, grunge is back…and she's all grown up!
SEEN AT: Dries Van Noten (Paris), 3.1 Philip Lim (New York), Prada (Milan)
The 90's grunge look has always been a favorite of mine. Nothing quite says cool like that style. The hair being so effortless, no fuss, allows us to embrace our more natural side, not being afraid of frizz and texture.
Using products like Fekkai Tousled Wave Hairspray, that enhance the hairs natural wave while taming some frizz is the perfect way to create a more polished natural grunge look. Also, loosely braiding the hair while it's drying, then removing the hair from the braids before it totally dries is the perfect way to enhance the hairs texture and get the 90's grunge wave.
I recently did a grunge look for Emma Stone on the cover of W Magazine. I love Juergen Teller's raw aesthetic and knew Emma's pale blonde color and natural texture would be perfectly complimented by the way he shoots. That real, effortless, raw feel is one of the sexiest looks in my book.
SWA hairstylist Mara Roszak
SEEN AT: 3.1 Philip Lim (New York), Giles (London), Dries Van Noten (Paris)
One thing that doesn't get mentioned enough about the 90's grunge scene is what a great time it was for women. Sonic Youth, The Breeders, PJ Harvey, L7, and even Courtney Love were all bad ass rockers that equaled their male counterparts. They actually played instruments, wrote their music and controlled their own image - quite different from the slickly packaged dance performances, pre-recorded audio tracks and stripper costumes that many of today's female acts have adopted. The grunge look wasn't about being overtly sexy, it was about a certain kind of cool that rejected the mainstream "Clueless" ideal.
Seeing grunge fashion come around again feels strange since in the back of my closet there is still a collection of plaid flannels, striped men's sailor shirts, badly ripped Levi's and concert t-shirts worn to transparency. Perhaps it's resurgence is a response to the overwhelming quest for homogenized perfection, idealized beauty and extreme commercialism that have become the trademarks of this decade? Or maybe it's just because every generation wishes they had seen the bands of the decade prior to them? Regardless, seize this moment to embrace the grunge aesthetic. Here are some tips:
1: Skip the conditioner, blow dryer and straightening iron in favor of "mussed to the point of tangled" hair. Pair with clean skin, simple winged eye liner and a swipe of nude lipstick for an updated version of the classic 90's party look.
2: Channel the ideal amount of 90's angst with tinted moisturizer and a brick red lipstick. Resist the temptation to apply mascara and blush.
3: Consider bangs. The shorter, the better. Also, ditch your hand painted ombre and salon created blond highlights for a bad bleach job, raven black or deep cherry red.
4: Under-eye circles are chic. Embrace yours.
5: Apply a generous amount of black eyeliner BEFORE you go to bed. Wake up, splash water on your face and leave your house. This is the way that 90's rockers and party animal models used to achieve that perfectly smudged smokey eye.
SWA makeup artist Robin Black
The same way GRUNGE and MINIMALISM represent dual style trends from the 90s, the 60's revival that overtook the Spring runways can also be broken into two categories: POLISHED and FACTORY GIRL. Models either channelled Jackie or Twiggy. Audrey or Edie. Uptown or Downtown. And, sometimes, a little bit of both.
The POLISHED 60's trend was most notable at Louis Vuitton, where models descended from escalators in pairs sporting matching headband-adorned bouffants. Vuitton creative director, Marc Jacobs, pioneered the trend three weeks earlier at his namesake runway show when he sent his girls strutting down the runway with platinum mod-inspired cuts. The 60's FACTORY GIRL element could be seen in the makeup stories at big houses like Fendi, Chanel and Dior where makeup artists made model's eyes POP! Pun intended.
SEEN AT: Louis Vuitton (Paris), Marc Jacobs (New York), Dolce & Gabanna (Milan)
The 60's represent one of the last eras where women embraced a very "lady-like" aesthetic, and there was clearly a return to femininity in the Spring shows. I think Twiggy, Edie and Jackie O are definitely some of the strongest icons from this era. Although now, you have women like Lana del Rey and Michelle Williams (with her cropped haircut) who are adopting these styles.
A proper blowout is crucial to achieving the 60's look. Even though you often tease afterwards, getting the root blown out and the volume in the hair first is essential. You can set the hair in Velcro rollers or heat up the hot rollers if you prefer, it really just depends on your hair type. Simple things like a deep side part with an ear-tuck, or some added volume in the crown will give a 60s feeling to your modern hairstyle without making it too strong of a look.
Personally, I'm a sucker for a modern texture combined with a retro shape. The right volumizer for your hair type is key. I like Leonor Greyl mousse for these looks (although it can sometimes be too heavy for certain hair textures). And a good strong hold hairspray, I use REDKEN 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray and Oribe Superfine Hairspray.
SWA hairstylist Luke Chamberlain
SEEN AT: Michael Kors (New York), Fendi (Milan), Christian Dior (Paris)
For Spring we saw a lot of shift dresses and clothes with a boyish fit. I think makeup artists wanted to bring out the femininity in the clothes and models. The best way to do that is with a statement eye.
If you're looking to try this trend at home I would encourage girls to do their homework: look at the runway shows and magazine editorials. Of course, these are going to be a little more stylized, but they're a great start. Try picking a favorite aspect of a look; the blue eyeshadow, the dramatic cat-eye or the rhinestone appliques and make it your own. You can always tame down a dramatic look with by using eye liner to give it depth. Don't be afraid of trying the brighter colors or even metallics. I've been using rust a lot lately and I think it's totally having a comeback.
SWA makeup artist Mai Quynh
Check out our AskSWA and get your beauty and style questions answered by our pro team!
(clockwise from top left)
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Vogue Espana - April 2013. Hair color by Tracey Cunningham for Starworks Artists.
Emily Vancamp, FASHION - April 2013. Hair by John D for Starworks Artists.
Ashley Benson, Seventeen - April 2013. Makeup by Mai Quynh for Starworks Artists.
Juno Temple, Wonderland - Feb/March 2013. Hair by Aviva for Starworks Artists.
Hayden Panettiere, NYLON March 2013. Makeup by Jeannia Robinette for Starworks Artists.
Emily Vancamp - FASHION April 2013
I love working with Emily! She's so cool and easy to get on with. We shot this cover story at Siren Studios in Hollywood. The hair inspiration for the cover look was full bodied waves with a great side swept bang; a very "cover worthy" style. After we shot a few cover looks in studio, photog James White decided that we should go for an edgier and more moody look for the inside shots. We moved the shooting location into the stairway of the studio which really lent to a more gritty vibe. We did a couple of hair looks there. The first look was kept down (kind of like the cover) but the texture was more piece-y and tousled and the wardrobe changed to a darker palette. Then we did a great up style, that they used on the inside. We all just LOVED the moody set up!
SWA hairstylist John D
Ashley Benson - Seventeen April 2013
Ashley's wardrobe for the Seventeen shoot was red, white and blue and very American. So, I thought it would be fun to go peaches-and-cream for her makeup. I used Chantelcaille Cheek Shade in Wind to create her skins peachy tone and finished the look off with Ashley's signature smokey eye. She looked pretty and friendly, perfect for a day shoot. We shot at a ranch and I remember it was freezing that day. The whole crew was in down jackets and boots and Ashley was in cut-off shorts and tank tops. You'd never know from how happy she looks.
SWA makeup artist Mai Quynh.
Juno Temple - WONDERLAND Feb/March 2013
Juno is so naturally cool! She walked in with a gigantic coat on and the most amazing flowing wild red hair and I just wanted to spotlight her natural coolness! I used Fekkai COIFF Bouffant-Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel, which is my go-to product when I want to create a matte messy texture and volume at the same time. Then I used my fingers to rough dry the product in with my fingers. There was no brush used the whole day! Then I used my other favorite product which is ORIBE Dry Texturizing Spray all over from roots to ends. It was a very overcast chilly Sunday morning and everyone was very sleepy and moving slow. Then Juno walked in with a huge smile and her electric hair and it felt like the sun had just started to shine!
SWA hairstylist Aviva.
Hayden Panettiere, NYLON April 2013
The wardrobe from the Nylon shoot were very 80's; colorful and fun. I knew I wanted to do a raw/cool look for the makeup and focused a lot of attention on the eye. I used a lot of black eyeliner and elongated the eye using eye shadows. We left the rest of the face raw to make sure the look stayed young and fresh. I think it went great with the 80's glam clothes.
SWA makeup artist, Jeannia Robinette.
Click through to the Starworks Artists Facebook Page to see the full editorials.
Check out our AskSWA feature and get your beauty and style quesitons answered by our pro team!
(photo courtesy of Lifestyle Mirror)
Actress Emma Stone set the red carpet on fire during the premiere of Gangster Squad this week. Her glam squad breaks down the winning look, including commentary from celeb hairstylist Mara Roszak. (NYLON)
There are countless reasons we love celeb hairstylist Mark Townsend and now we can add his childhood penchant for styling dolls, his stint as a Miami club kid and his adorable obsession with Danilo to our list! (BEAUTY BANTER)
How do we say this calmly…boychild is Everything! Just one look at her androgynous features and penchant for colorful body paint and it's hard not to be intrigued by the San Franscisco performance artist. She's walked runway shows in NYC, out freaked even the craziest LA club kids and was on every PR girl's must-attend list during this year's Art Basel. In a word, Major.
So, it was a pretty amazing moment to find out our very own megaglam girl, makeup artist Robin Black, would be featuring boychild in her most recent Beauty Is Boring makeover. Here's what Robin had to say about the collaboration (pictured above):
ON HOW THE TWO MET: boychild and I have a ton of mutual friends so it's ironic that we connected on Instagram. We both post a constant stream of make-up looks and have a fondness for abstract white brush strokes so perhaps it was inevitable.
(via @beautyisboring_ Instagram)
(via @boychild Instagram)
ON CREATING DUELING IMAGES: Right from the start, we wanted to do very different looks to maximize the contrast between the two images. boychild approaches make-up in the same way an artist uses paint or any other medium, as a way to express a specific emotion or to build on a concept. As a deliberate counterpoint, I chose to do a very structured glamour look loosely based on LA chola style. It was really fun to watch each other work!
ON MAINTAINING HEALTHY SKIN UNDER ALL THAT MAKEUP: If you are going to use heavy theatrical make-up, you need to pay special attention to your skin. Start by using a good moisturizer - one that absorbs well, is fragrance free and has a minimum of ingredients. When you are ready to remove your make-up, try an old fashioned cold cream or an oil cleanser. Apply, let sit for 30 seconds and then delicately wipe off. Repeat until all the make-up is removed, then rinse your face with cold water and pat dry.
Hood By Air S/S13 Runway Show
Uncharacteristically Squeaky Clean
For more on boychild visit her Facebook Page by clicking here.
Make sure to check out our AskSWA feature and get your beauty and style questions answered by our team of professionals, including Robin Black!
Halloween is our kinda holiday! And, let's be honest, who does the scary night better than makeup artists?! For today's Throwback Thursdays, our beauty crew submits pics from Halloweens past. Enjoy. And, please, try at home.
(PICTURED ABOVE) This is the makeup I did for Hamish Bowles as the late Cabaret star, Marlene Dietrich, last Halloween. Transforming Hamish to channel icon Marlene Dietrich was a lot of fun. However, trying to catch him a cab after when the first blizzard fell on New York City was not.
- Nina Park for Starworks Artists
I did my sister Ashley's make up, my husband's make up (picutred with me) and my own make up. Our inspiration was "The Haunted Mansion" at Disneyland. We all wanted to look like dead people from the past. Its amazing what a little make up and hair can do!
- Jenn Streicher for Starworks Artists (Also pictured at top)
In 2011 I was lucky enough to work on the amazing foster kids from an organization called Kids Save International. He wanted the Incredible Hulk and I didn’t know what I was doing but he liked it!
- Amy Nadine for Starworks Artists
Two years ago, for Halloween, I dressed up as the Queen of Hearts. I was inspired by the Tim Burton movie Alice in Wonderland. I thought that the Queen had such fun makeup in the movie and I wanted to try to duplicate it on myself! I went to a Halloween party that weekend and I had such a blast saying "Off with their heads!" I met a couple of Mad Hatters at that party too. Lol
- Mai Quynh for Starworks Artists
This is the look I created for Kelly Wearstler for Halloween in 2011. The costume was inspired by corpse bride but with a modern twist: top-hat, pearls, etc. I wanted her to look scary in a really cool, sexy way! I used a pale foundation to wash out the natural skin color and created "eye-sockets" as you would see on a skeleton skull, using a combination of black cream and powder eyeshadows. I added big false lashes for the sexiness. And of course, black lips completed the look.
- Kristee Liu for Starworks Artists
I wish Día de los Muertos was in May… or maybe even June. And while a monster mouth is appropriate all year long, I find it particularly fun as a Spring/Summer look. It says, "Hey, just because the sun is shining doesn't mean my inner goth has to stay hidden." As demonstrated by my frequent accomplice Beck, just add some pretty Chanel eyeshadow and you have a Tim Burton couture look!
- Robin Black for Starworks Artists
Test Mag is the brainchild of Vogue UK creative director, Jaime Perlman, and acts as a platform for new and emerging artists to display their talents through visual media. In the latest video, SWA makeup artist Robin Black puts down her brushes and steps behind the camera to direct five "Modern Warriors." Black has a knack for finding beauty in unconventional places as seen through some of the posts in her blog, Beauty is Boring. In "Modern Warriors" she enlists a group of tatted up gangsters to rock some of the chicest fall fashions from Y-3, Alexander Wang and Dior.
Hair for the editorial was done by Starworks Artists John Ruggiero.
Click through to the Starworks Artists Facebook Page to see the complete editorial.
The Utah Museum of Contemporary Art opens it's Battleground States Exhibit Friday, October 5th with submissions from art-world heavyweights such as Matthew Barney, Annie Leibowitz, Takashi Murakami and our very own Robin Black. The exhibit focuses on society's changing ideas of gender roles as seen through video, sculpture, installation and photography. Black uses her makeup blog, Beauty is Boring, to explore concepts of traditional beauty and has selected photos from her collection to debut in the show as large Polaroids.
Click here for more information on the show.
Brittany Snow looked amazing at the Pitch Perfect premiere this week, as evidenced by these pics captured by her makeup artist Amy Nadine for Starworks Artists. Mara Roszak for Starworks Artistst was also on call for hair and created this modern updo that turns into a braided bun in the back. Gorge!
North Carolina band, Delta Rae, snapped a shot with Conan O'Brien before hitting his late-night stage for the second time. Click here to check out their fiery performance. Aviva for Starworks Artists did the entire band's hair and grooming. We imagine she's resting somewhere just off camera.
We're obsessed with all the party photos getting posted from Emmy weekend. It's great to see all the comedy girls are friends in real life! Here's New Girl's Zooey Deschanel and The Mindy Project's Mindy Kaling celebrating after the big night. Wonder if they exchanged any hair tips…Kaling and Deschanel's hair looks were achieved by Luke Chamberlain and Mara Roszak for Starworks Artists, respectively.
Modern Family star Ariel Winter doesn't let an Emmy win slow her down. Here she is getting glam before her KTLA interview earlier today. What were you doing when you were 14? There's Aviva for Starworks Artists in the back making sure all of Winter's locks have the perfect curl.
This week's Beauty is Boring post had us doing a double take. That's because makeup artist Robin Black for Starworks Artists chose Kelly Tomlinson, an agent here in the Starworks office, as her model and muse. Who knew we had a 1940's pin-up model sitting just a couple desks away?!
Happy Birthday to Kate Lee for Starworks Arists!!! Minnie Mouse ears and Cha-Cha heels?! Night well spent, indeed.
California clothing label, Band of Outsiders, posted this pic from an upcoming ad campaign asking their followers to guess the celebrity model. We'd be down to throw a few names in the basket...if we weren't already privy to the masked star's identity. Be sure to check back in after the ad drops for details on the shoot's beauty look.
Sound advice from styling duo Emily Current and Meritt Elliott for Starworks Artists. Must remember next time we have the option.